There is a certain magic about skiing. The whole experience can be borderline otherworldly. The mountain landscape dressed entirely in white is an eerie contrast with the usual deep green, and the tranquility of the mountains is enhanced by the blanket of pearly white sound proofing coating the trees and cliffs. There is something about such a peaceful looking landscape being so harsh and unforgiving that has always fascinated me. This fascination, combined with the beauty and intensity of the sport itself, has always drawn me to skiing. Something about flying through that dangerously peaceful landscape, with snow ghosts whizzing by all around, makes skiing the most magical sport on Earth. This magic can be felt with a particular strength on the slopes of Grand Targhee in Alta, Wyoming.
Grand Targhee (known as simply Targhee or even the ‘Ghee in some circles) does not have the glitz and glamor of large well developed destinations like Deer Valley, Aspen, or Sun Valley. In fact, the amenities at the base are not much to look at, with only a few modest accommodations and a couple of small, but occasionally raucous, bars and eateries. The lift infrastructure is mostly modern and more than serviceable, but while some resorts (Whistler Blackcomb) boast upwards of eight, there is not a single fancy gondola or tram. These worldly luxuries are not what makes this a special place. Rather, it is the qualities that are difficult to quantify that truly set Grand Targhee apart. The views, the terrain, the snow, and the on-mountain atmosphere are notable strengths, and these qualities combine in the perfect way to create a magical place in the Tetons of Northwestern Wyoming.
The Tetons are a large contributing factor themselves. Although resorts like Heavenly, Telluride, and Lake Louise are better known for their views, the view of the Grand Teton from the top of Targhee should be considered one of the best views in all of skiing. Besides the Grand Canyon, it is the most beautiful view I have ever seen, and despite having been to resorts like Whitefish and Brighton, which are known for having great views, the view from the top of Targhee is the only skiing view that has ever made me stop and stare multiple times. From the top of the Mary’s Nipple hike, it feels like you can just reach out and touch the Grand Teton. Typically, good views are just a bonus for me in a ski resort, but that view produces one of the most unique and magical feelings in skiing.
Another great strength of Targhee is its very unique terrain. The terrain at neighboring Jackson Hole may be more technical, but Targhee’s overall footprint is unlike any other I have ever skied. The area is laid out over two mountains, Fred’s Mountain and Peaked Mountain, with a saddle in the middle. Both mountains offer wide open expanses filled with intermediate groomers surrounded by more advanced terrain. The result is an epic choose-your-own-adventure playground where advanced skiers can point their skis in any direction and find the run of their life. Even though Targhee is not known for its expert terrain, there is some truly difficult terrain on the Peaked Mountain side coming down to the saddle. This area is riddled with cliffs and chutes, and it has some lines that would challenge the overwhelming majority of expert and advanced skiers. These factors combine to give the terrain an incredibly unique feel.
But terrain is useless if it’s not open or covered in ice. The snow itself has a large impact on the quality of the skiing. As an east coast skier, I understand this fact better than most. I have had far too many ski days ruined by bad snow or complete lack of snow. These problems are incredibly rare at Grand Targhee. The unique weather patterns on the western side of the Tetons make Targhee one of the only resorts that can compete with Utah’s Little Cottonwood Canyon resorts in both quantity and quality of snow. Every year around 500 inches of perfect dry powder blankets the slopes of Fred’s and Peaked Mountains, which ensures that every turn made on that terrific terrain is somewhere between good and heavenly.
Part of why Targhee turns are so great is that you don’t have to share them with too many other folks. Targhee has maintained its laid back, uncrowded vibe by staying off both the Ikon Pass and Epic Pass. The resort’s refusal to join the megapasses has also kept lift ticket prices down, and as a result, most of the people on the mountain are just out there to have a good time doing what they love. The lack of accommodation at the base and the lack of glitz in the nearby town of Driggs, Idaho means that only people who are serious about skiing come to ski in this fairly isolated corner of Wyoming. The vibes both on-mountain and at the base were great at Targhee, which is a direct result of the unpretentious vibe of both the resort and Driggs.
These elements all combine to make Targhee a truly magical ski area, and I felt this magic most strongly during one one run in particular: a hike to the top of Mary’s Nipple. The hike to the top of Mary’s Nipple, which is a minor summit on the ridge between the top of Fred’s Mountain and Peaked Mountain, is one of the most memorable experiences I’ve ever had skiing. The hike is not particularly difficult, but at the high elevation, it will definitely get your heart rate up. That being said, it is more than worth it for the view of the Grand Teton alone. As I mentioned before, it is literally breathtaking, and I consider it my all time favorite skiing view. The run down from Mary’s Nipple is a lightly treed bowl down into the saddle between the two mountains, and it does not disappoint. Even though it had not snowed in days when we were at Grand Targhee, we still had very fresh snow in the bowl, and every turn was amazing. The skiing itself was great, but it was not the only highlight of our run. In the saddle area, we encountered groups of skiers who were sessioning built jumps as if in the backcountry. Watching this was a very cool experience to have within the boundaries of a ski resort, and it really put a smile on my face to see people having such a great time doing what we all love. Everyone was rooting for skiers to throw new tricks and try new lines, and it felt like we were all one big happy skiing family. This is when I realized that Grand Targhee is a truly magical place. This magic may be a result of the factors I laid out in this piece or it may come from something else completely, but it’s there, and it manifests itself in the way that the resort brings skiers together in our love for the sport and each other.